The Wild Heart of the Mpumalanga: History, Wildlife and Life Around Ntsinini
There is a point on the drive from Johannesburg where the landscape begins to change. The buildings become fewer. The roads wind through open countryside. The air gets cooler and the hills begin to rise. Then you pass through the ZASM tunnel and begin sudden descent into a completely different ecosystem.
This is the Mpumalanga Escarpment Ecotone
The literal meeting point of the Highveld cold grassland biome and the Lowveld sub tropical savanna.
Ntsinini sits in the middle of this microclimate refugium and vital topographic corridor that has dictated the preservation of species and the patterns of human settlement over millennia.
Covering around 2,500 hectares, this unique property is enhanced by the Elands River and Swartkoppies Spruit systems and offers a glimpse into a part of South Africa where the landscape has always set the pace.
For Ntsinini’s visitors, the appeal is easy to understand. There is subtle eco conscious housing, fishing, hiking, birding and wildlife. There are waterfalls and natural pools, evenings around the fire and mornings where the only real decision is how to make this special day count.
But there is much more to this region than beautiful scenery.
This is an old landscape with a long human history, and the birds, animals and plants that exist here are part of a much bigger story.
A LAND SHAPED BY WATER
Water is one of the defining features of Ntsinini.
With around 11 kilometres of river running through the property, the Elands and Swartkoppies create a network of habitats for fish, birds, insects and mammals. The rivers move through sections of indigenous vegetation and open country before disappearing around bends and between the hills.
For generations, water has influenced where people settled, where animals moved and how communities used the land.
Today, the rivers provide some of the property's most memorable experiences. Ntsinini is known for fly-fishing, with rainbow trout and Bushveld smallscale yellowfish found in the rivers. For experienced anglers, fishing at Ntsinini offers a genuine challenge.
The rivers also create a natural corridor for wildlife.
Move away from the water and the landscape changes again. Open grasslands give way to thicker vegetation, wooded areas and rocky slopes. Each habitat attracts different species, which helps explain the variety of mammals found around Ntsinini.
THE SPECIES OF THIS MICROCLIMATE REFUGIUM
Wildlife in this unique biosphere are not confined to one type of landscape.
Giraffe browse among the trees, while small groups of Impala hug the bushy road edges. Zebra move from the upper plains down through the open grassland. Kudu make use of woodland and thicker vegetation, while smaller antelope such as duiker and bushbuck tend to favour areas where cover is close by.
Bushbuck are particularly well suited to the riverine environment around Ntsinini. They are shy and prefer dense vegetation and often stay close to water, using their surroundings to remain hidden. A male bushbuck is striking, with a dark coat and distinctive white markings, while females are generally smaller and reddish-brown. They are cautious animals, so a sighting often happens quickly. You might notice movement between the trees, catch sight of an animal watching from the vegetation, and then find the spot empty a moment later.
Kudu are easier to recognise. The males carry their famous spiral horns, sometimes reaching more than a metre in length. They are browsers rather than grazers, feeding on leaves and shoots from trees and shrubs. Their colouring helps them blend remarkably well into the bush, despite their size.
Then there are the animals that remind you how little we see of the wildlife around us. The Honey Badger is one of them. Their real name is Mellivora capensis which means honey eater of the cape. Honey Badgers are diurnal and solitary, They have exceptionally thick skin which has a rubbery quality like a loose fitting coat which allows them to slip out of the grip of a potentially threatening predator. They eat venomous snakes and have been found to have a unique molecular mutation which prevents venom from entering their cells and causing them damage. They have an incredible bite force, exceptional eye sight and a strong sense of smell. All of these add up to a very well equipped hunter.
Seeing a Honey Badger in the wild is a rare experience. If you happen to encounter one at Ntsinini, you will have had a particularly special wildlife moment.
At Ntsinini we are committed to preserving this special biosphere to ensure that all the special creatures large and small are protected in this safe haven.
THE PEOPLE WHO CAME BEFORE
Long before today's visitors arrived with fishing rods and weekend bags, people were living with purpose across these mountains and valleys.
Mpumalanga has a deep archaeological and cultural history. A number of theories abound about the communities that lived across this region, leaving behind remnants of dwellings, terraces and artifacts reminding us that whole communities once lived here.
On Ntsinini you will find stone circle structures and see evidence of terrace gardens reminding us that this valley has never been an empty wilderness. People have lived here, travelled through here, farmed here and depended on the land for thousands of years.
THE HISTORY OF WATERVAL BOVEN
This town was established in 1895 as a crucial refueling and repair depot for the Netherlands - South African Railway Company which built the vital Pretoria - Delagoa Bay railway line. Between 1892 and 1894 the 211 metre NZASM stone masonry tunnel was built. The story goes that the 2 digging teams from either side miraculously ended up aligning their diggings within 50 mm of one another. To conquer the steep rise from Waterval Onder to Waterval Boven required the installation of a 1:20 gradient rack - rail system - the only one at that time in Africa. This rack system was ultimately replaced with a winding loop that successfully lowered the track gradient.
Waterval Onder played a dramatic role as the last functioning heart of the Boer republic, during the final days of the ZAR (Zuid - Afrikaansche Republiek) during the 2nd Boer War. Krugerhof, a modest little dwelling, was the last home of President Paul Kruger before he fled South Africa via Mozambique into permanent exile in Europe.
Due to the position of the escarpment behind Kiaat Cottage on Ntsinini, this property served as a strategic point of surveillance during the 2nd Anglo Boer war. There is also evidence of previous settlements in the form of grave sites, sangors and what appear to be remnants of block houses on the farm.
Ntsinini’s geography and river systems that appeal to us for recreation today are what sustained life over the ages in this very special neck of the woods.
A LAND WORTH PROTECTING
One of the most interesting things about spending time in this part of Mpumalanga is the sheer variety of life within a relatively small area.
The terrain, rainfall, rivers and changing vegetation create different habitats close together. Grasslands support grazing animals and a huge variety of insects and plants. Forested areas provide shelter for mammals and birds. Rivers support aquatic life while also attracting animals looking for water.
The birdlife of Ntsinini is impressive. More than 250 bird species, from river and wetland species to birds associated with grassland and woodland habitats have been recorded on this property.
Plant life tells another story. Ntsinini is home to a wide variety of plants and trees, including a number of rare and endemic species. During the wetter months, the landscape changes colour as grasses, wildflowers and other plants respond to the rain.
It is easy to look at the hills and see only scenery. Spend a little longer here and you start to see an uniquely precious ecosystem.
STAYING AT NTSININI
The cottages at Ntsinini put you close to the landscape without asking you to give up the comforts of a proper getaway.
Bushwillow sits beside the river and sleeps up to 10 guests, making it a popular option for families and groups who want to be close to the water with fishing and nature right outside the door.
The Farmhouse offers a more traditional and historical country house experience and sleeps up to 12 guests.
Kiaat sleeps up to nine, while Sagewood accommodates up to 10 guests and both offer unique breathtaking views across the surrounding landscape.
Each cottage gives you a base from which to experience this ecosystem in your own way.
You might plan every day around an activity.
Or you might arrive with no plans at all.
Both work.
THE JOURNEY IS PART OF THE EXPERIENCE
Ntsinini is around 2.5 hours from Johannesburg, making this sanctuary close enough for a long weekend while still feeling far removed from city life.
And perhaps that is one of the biggest reasons to visit.
You don't need a two-week holiday.
You don't need a packed itinerary.
You need enough time to slow down and notice where you are.
The mountains have been here long before the cottages. The rivers have followed their paths for generations. The wildlife continues moving through the grasslands and forests, as it always has.
Ntsinini gives you the opportunity to spend a little time in the middle of all of it.
Come for the fishing.
Stay for the flora and fauna.
Learn a little about its history.
And leave with a better understanding of this remarkable property, only a few hours from Johannesburg.
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